Well... That's up to you to decide.

• Shifter/cable (bike shop)
• Cable housing and two housing end caps (bike shop)
• Cable stop/barrel adjuster (bike shop)
• Cable crimp (hardware store)
• Small hitch pin (hardware store)
• Rubber shims
• A couple of nuts and washers
• Zip ties

1. Remove shift knob and slide shifter down onto shift lever. You will need to use a rubber shim, BTW - the shifter needs a 5mm allen wrench to tighten.

2. Run the housing out to the engine compartment. There are a few routes that will work, but be careful to keep the housing off the manifold as it will melt or seize or both. I ran mine down though the shifter boot (cut a small hole) and out through the hole behind the clove box where the AC lines would come in if I had AC. I had to remove the fuse panel to route it this way. Another route would be through the rubber grommets high on the firewall over the gas pedal and to the right a little bit. I didn't use this as it put to many bends in the line and brought it close to the manifold.

3. The housing will terminate next to the throttle cable on top of the manifold. There is a plate there for the throttle cable and cruise control. I don't have cruise control so I just used that space. Use two fender washers and a nut to hold the barrel adjuster in place.

4. Make sure the cable will slide through the line without any binding and cut the housing as short as you can. The cable is only about 5' long. Note - shift into all gears and make sure the cable still doesn't bind.

5. Attach the cable to the throttle. If you don't have cruise control you can use the post opposite the throttle cable. Slide the small crimp onto the cable and wrap the cable around the throttle. Leave enough slack to pull the cable off if you need to (I leave mine disconnected most of the time). Crimp the loop closed. Use the hitch pin on the outside of the cable to keep it from popping off.

7. Loosely zip tie the housing down where necessary. You can use the cable guide on the top of the valve cover.

I recommend using a little bit of rubber cement or an epoxy to hold the housing in the stop/adjuster. Mine has popped out on occasion when wheeling and sent the revs to 3500. That's kind of how Bud Boren rolled in Moab…

The shifter is for an indexed system, meaning that it "clicks" into each gear. I set mine of "f8". To change the setting, loosen the black wing nut and rotate the black cap so the red dot is over f8. "F" stands for friction, and has a slight ratchet to it. Tightening and loosening the nut will change the tension on the shifter. It can hold the engine at a set RPM if you choose.

Email me with any questions. I did these instructions from memory while working so...

I bet they're still better than Rubicon Express's.