I mentioned that I should sell this information. This is about the best rack design (little pat on my back) that I have seen so far. It can be made into the Jamboree rack type very easily with only a little modification. My other Jeep, a CJ5, had the same type of rack but I added a couple of pieces of tubing and built two racks over the gas can and tire that would part in the middle. That would be used for the typical type of storage that you would do on a Jamboree.
Well here it is. Good luck
The 3 cans (mine are 2 water and 1 gas) can be plastic. You will have to modifiy the rack dimensions a bit. Also, the cans could be laid flat if you want just 2. Also, you can build a tool box back there if you do not want any cans. Options, options. You can do anything you want if you are building your own.
Here's the build instructions:
The following is a schematic of how I did the carrier. Most of the dimensions can be played with if you make a mistake and make something a little longer or shorter by mistake. I did not include the bumper in this layout as I built the bumper without it.
I used a 2x4-1/4 wall steel tubing. I made the bumper about 3/4 inch longer than the Jeep on each side. I then closed the ends. The reason that I made the bumper longer is that I use it as a stop when I slide against a rock. It hits before the body does. I have hit the bumper lots, but have never hit the body. The advantage to this was less weight. In retrospect, I would not do this again. The lights were too hard to find. I finally ended up with lights from Pep Boys at about $4.00 each.
On rigs that I built bumpers later, I used 2x6-1/4 wall. You can position this so that it is flush with the bottom of your rig in the back and you will not lose ground clearance. You can now use the boat type of lights that have the rubber around them and will slip into the hole that you make in the bumper or you can use the round truck type lights. If you use the round truck type lights, you can cut a piece of tubing the right length and weld it into the bumper. If you do this inside and out, the bumper will be air tight incase you want to make it a pressure chamber in the future for add on air ullage. The ends of one of the bumpers turned out different than mine and it was neat. Instead of coming out straight, I cut the bumper at an angle right where the body starts to get round. I then turned the part that I cut off over and welded it back on to the main part of the bumper. If you calculate it right, you can have the exact angle to run around and under the corner of the rig. It still will protrude out past the body but gets that tailored look. I did this on a TLC. A little more work but the end product was worth it. In the center of the bumper, I cut a square hole with a torch and inserted a square receiver for trailer towing. I then welded this in place. I had to cut the standard receiver to insure that it would fit without hitting the rear of the rig.
To attach the bumper to the rig, just use the extra material that you cut off the bumper stock . I cut mine about 4 inches long, turned them so that the open side was up and down, bolted them to the frame mounts where the other bumper went, clamped the new bumper inplace against the new pieces and welded them in place.
Now, you are ready to build the carrier framework. There will be two more holes that you will have to drill into the bumper later but not until you finish the carrier. The reason is that the exact width of the carrier may vary a little and you want it to fit properly.
Assuming that you have the carrier fabricated now, measure the carrier overall length, give a little space in the center, about 3/8", and record this number. Divide this in half and mark the bumper on the top. This will be the pivot point for the carrier. Drill a 1 1/4 hole thru the bumper top to bottom, on both sides. Insert the 1 1/4 tube into these holes and weld them in place. Insure that they are straight up and down and sideways. Otherwise your carrier will look sagged and may not close well. Grind these smooth to the bumper. On the top of the bumper and sleeve, position the 1" bushings that I called for in the list of materials. Insert the 1" solid rod into the hole and weld the outside of the bushing in place. I used this bushing so that the carrier had a flat place to pivot on. I suppose you could use something else as the base if you wanted. Remove the rod. You now not only have a flat surface but you have a place for the thrust bearing. One guy did not want the bearing and decided to just swing the carrier against the bushing. This works but is not as smooth.
In the center of the bumper, where the two sides of the carrier meet, you need to position a stop so the carrier does not swing against the body. All you need is to use a piece of 3"angle about 6-8 inches long. Position it so that the back of the angle is flush with the bumper and in the center of the bumper. Swing the carriers sides together and lock inplace with the handle. Shim the angle piece so that it is in contact with the carrier bottom. There should actually be a little interference between the bottom of the carrier and the top of the angle. Weld in place. Take a sledge hammer and make the leading edge of the angle a ramp. This will allow the carriers to slide up the ramp when you close the carriers.
That's all for the bumper.
You can either have the rack with the tire on the left or the right. You do not have to make up your mind until you get ready to weld the tire mount in place. I did all of mine with the tire on the passenger side. The piece of 5"x6" box that you see on the right view is the tire mount. You can use the one that you already have and it would save a little time and fabrication. I sold my old rack before it thought about it and had to build one.
The carriers are pretty self explanatory except for the pivot points. I mitered all corners so that the exposed ends were welded closed.
The reason that I picked that size tubing was that a 1" rod will slide inside the tubing. Fabricate the carriers with at least one bottom end open. This will be the pivot side. You can leave both ends open as no one will see them and make up you mind later which way the rack will swing.
For the purposes explanation, lets assume that you build it like mine. The tire side will have the handle. This is very simple . Use a piece of channel, 1 1/4" inside. Make it long enough to bridge both side of the carriers. Mine is about 12" long. I had to cut a small channel out on the pivot side to allow it to be pivoted straight up. The channel has to be about 1 1/2 deep.
I changed the dimensions on this schematic to position the tire higher. Mine was too low and covered the tail lights and hit the ground on trials like Stone. Before you weld yours in place, position the tire on the rack with clamps and look at it. Also make it fit at least a 35" tire unless you are sure that you will never use a tire that big. This will position the tire up and down and left to right. You want to insure that the rack will close with any tire size.
The gas can side is the same type of frame work. Get your cans. I used the standard GI type but one guy used plastic. It will make a difference in the overall width of this side. I use the GI type so that I can carry either 2 water and one gas or 2 gas and one water.
The strap across the top is pivoted on a hinge. Use any type of hinge that you want. One the opposite side of the hinge, I welded a bolt to the upright side. When the top is close, capturing the cans, the top has a matching hole in it that slides over the bolt. A wing nut secures the whole thing together.
Note: Insure that the framework for the cans is welded straight to the rack. It will look goofy if it is too high on one side or is not straight.
After the racks are complete, slide, pounds, beat the 1" rod into the open end. Make it stick out about 6" (assuming you use a 6" bumper material). Slide another bushing over the tubing and weld it to the rack. Drill and tap a 3/8" hole in the bottom of each rod.
Slide the bearings in place over the rod. Slide the racks inplace on the bumper. (I use white grease on the rod for lube). Remove and paint.
WA LA, you be done.
Good luck.
Steve Friend (714)524-7644.
P.S.: Takes about 2 weekends
Pictures of the completed rack (with the old 2x4 bumper).
